Nice vlog. And you're still one of the reviewers that I always watch because you're consistent, personable and knowledgeable.
My thoughts on voltage drop testing. And keep in mind that I'm not an electrical engineer, but I am an engineer and a pretty fair electrician! LOL. Most people who do voltage drop testing are mainly concerned with the efficiency with which the "mod" will transfer current to the center pin. And thats really all that matters. And that is based solely on the materials used at both ends of the mod (top cap and bottom cap), the way in which those two areas come in contact with the battery terminals, and in the case of a mechanical mod with no direct conductor, the material that the mods' tube is made of.
For my money, the only way to accurately see if your mod is causing a loss of current to the center pin because of poor design or contacts or materials, would be to test it with a digital multimeter. To do this, you would first probe both ends of whatever test battery you were going to use, in whatever state of charge. That would give you a control number. Then insert the battery into your mod, and probe the center pin and and the area of the 510 connecter adjacent to the center pin, which would effectively be your negative, actuate the switch, and that number would be your voltage drop, if any, that the mod itself is causing because of any poor contacts, etc. And that should be it. Any numbers associated with firing an atomizer and using an inline meter between the mod and an atomizer to watch the numbers change would seem to me to be a function of the battery itself.
And again, this is just my opinion and I could be totally wrong about all or most of that!
Nice vlog. And you're still one of the reviewers that I always watch because you're consistent, personable and knowledgeable.
ReplyDeleteMy thoughts on voltage drop testing. And keep in mind that I'm not an electrical engineer, but I am an engineer and a pretty fair electrician! LOL. Most people who do voltage drop testing are mainly concerned with the efficiency with which the "mod" will transfer current to the center pin. And thats really all that matters. And that is based solely on the materials used at both ends of the mod (top cap and bottom cap), the way in which those two areas come in contact with the battery terminals, and in the case of a mechanical mod with no direct conductor, the material that the mods' tube is made of.
For my money, the only way to accurately see if your mod is causing a loss of current to the center pin because of poor design or contacts or materials, would be to test it with a digital multimeter. To do this, you would first probe both ends of whatever test battery you were going to use, in whatever state of charge. That would give you a control number. Then insert the battery into your mod, and probe the center pin and and the area of the 510 connecter adjacent to the center pin, which would effectively be your negative, actuate the switch, and that number would be your voltage drop, if any, that the mod itself is causing because of any poor contacts, etc. And that should be it. Any numbers associated with firing an atomizer and using an inline meter between the mod and an atomizer to watch the numbers change would seem to me to be a function of the battery itself.
And again, this is just my opinion and I could be totally wrong about all or most of that!
Hi Todd, just wondering if you had tried NatureVape's latest kit - the Vault and if so, what do you think?
ReplyDeleteMakes sense Mark, total sense mate :)
ReplyDeleteRussell, not even seen it as yet!